Birding and all the Rest . . .: ECUADOR

This is a good place for me to start:

ECUADOR 2011

BIRDING THE CHOCO !!!

In January 2011, I had the pleasure of 5 days of birding in Ecuador, a country with one of the most diverse avifauna in the world. My destination was the Choco, a region of mostly wet forests that runs from southern Panama through Columbia and Ecuador, and is home to many endemic species.

I arranged the adventure through Mindo Bird Tours,

http://www.mindobirds.com.ec/

whose owner, Jane Lyons, has dedicated her life to protecting and restoring the fragile habitats of the area. She operates the Reserva Las Gralarias, a 1000+ acre wildlife sanctuary located in the parish of Mindo, 2 hours west of Quito on the western slope of the Andes. The Las Gralarias guest house, in the middle of this fascinating reserve was my base for the duration of the trip and was a wonderful introduction to the cloud forest environment. Jane was a wonderful hostess, and I came away satisfied and with an admiration for the work that she and the foundation are doing to preserve this unique habitat.

My guide was Dusan Brinkhuisen, a native of Holland who now makes his home in Ecuador studying Ecuadorian avifauna and leading birding tours for Jane. His knowledge of and enthusiasm for these birds made for a special week of viewing and learning about the birds of the region.

I overnighted in Quito, a modern city (although irritatingly smog-bound). The hotel was above average, and my anxiety over my lack of Spanish skills was unnecessary, as the staff all spoke English. The next morning, I was met by Dusan and we headed out.

TUFTED TIT-TYRANT

The Quito streets were virtually birdless, save for many EARED DOVES, and GREAT THRUSHES, (lifer #1). The first official stop was an area of lower elevation below the cloud forest. An area of scrub and open grassland near the village of Calacali that contained an abandoned racetrack provided a number of interesting birds such as BAND-TAILED SIERRA-FINCH and BLACK-TAILED TRAINBEARER (hummingbird lifer # 1). The highlight of the stop was a good look at a TUFTED TIT-TYRANT, a small tyrannid with unique striping and features.

We made a quick stop at an area that overlooked the fertile valley formed by a long-extinct volcano. A scan for Andean Condor was unsuccessful, but did yield BLACK-CHESTED BUZZARD EAGLE and VARIABLE HAWK. Also visible were the spectacular peaks of the higher Andes.
Soon we arrived at the guest house at RESERVA LAS GRALARIAS; Jane’s lodge, built with green technology, is a picturesque accommodation, offering bedrooms, a community/dining area, and gardens well appointed with bird feeders of various types.

I must mention that the cloud forest environment at 6200 feet is NOT a day at the beach. The area was frequently drizzly and enshrouded by mist, at least at the time of my stay, with correspondingly cool temperatures (high 50s-60s). Beautiful for birders, but no place to put on a bikini and lounge by the pool.

VELVET-PURPLE CORONET


VIOLET-TAILED SYLPH

The highlight, of course, was the hummingbird garden, where many feeders provide for a number of species, some endemic to the Choco region. I logged easily a dozen lifers including the endemic BROWN INCA, PURPLE-BIBBED WHITETIP, VELVET-PURPLE CORONET, and VIOLET-TAILED SYLPH. A highlight for many birders is a view of the rare HOARY PUFFLEG, which is a regular visitor. WHITE-SIDED and MASKED FLOWERPIERCERS fed from the platform feeders, the first birds I’ve seen of that genus.

After lunch, Dusan and I took a walk on one of the many trails that crisscross the reserve. I should mention that the reserve consists of land purchased and maintained by the LAS GRALARIAS FOUNDATION; the following statement by the foundation sums up their mission.

MASKED FLOWERPIERCER

The goal of Las Gralarias Foundation Inc. is to raise funds for projects and programs of Reserva Las Gralarias, located in the parish of Mindo, Ecuador, including the purchase of adjacent and nearby lands that will enhance protection for rare and endemic birds, plants and other animals as well as support reserve management, reforestation efforts, biological research, environmental education projects, scholarships, and appropriate tourism programs.

Here is the link:

http://www.lasgralariasfoundation.org/


THE HUMMINGBIRD GARDEN AT THE RLG GUESTHOUSE

GUESTROOM AT RLG

The term ‘walk’ should be used lightly, as it turned out to be a long, wet slog along some STEEP and marginally passable paths (wear raingear, boots, and breathable clothing, as regular casual wear (jeans and T-shirts) will quickly soak and seemingly never dry!. Birding was sparse, but we had wonderful looks at an immature RUFOUS-HEADED PYGMY TYRANT, and one of my highlights, a SPILLMAN’S TAPACULO! Any Tapaculo is a nemesis bird for me due to their penchant for remaining hidden while singing loudly, so a sighting,however quick, made the hike well worth it.

ORANGE-BREASTED FRUITEATER

We ate dinner at the guest house, which was cooked by their excellent staff, and retired.

The next day involved birding the upper elevation areas in or near the guest house, as well as the Bellavista reserve area. With our driver, Nestor we set out down the steep driveway from the Reserve. The highlight for all this morning was a very cooperative pair of ORANGE-BREASTED FRUITEATERS, who rarely occur at the reserve. The drive also yielded TRICOLORED BRUSHFINCH (now split to CHOCO BRUSHFINCH). The rest of the day was quite productive, with highlights such as LONG-TAILED ANTBIRD, SMOKE-COLORED PEWEE, BARRED and BLACK-AND-WHITE BECARDS, and the gorgeous CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER and GRASS-GREEN TANAGER. A pair of BOOTED RACKET-TAIL hummingbirds were doing a mating dance along the road. AZARA’S SPINETAIL and POWERFUL WOODPECKER were also seen.

LONG-TAILED ANTBIRD


BROWN-BILLED SCYTHEBILL

On Day 3 and 4, we were joined by Tomas, a Finnish birding guide who was visiting the reserve. His extra set of experienced eyes helped greatly in our search.

First was a visit to the MILPE bird sanctuary, which had a café and various bird feeders. On a foggy, damp day we hiked the trails and got good looks at the endemic CLUB-WINGED MANAKIN, a beautiful RED-HEADED BARBET, and WHITE-THIGHED SWALLOW. We also saw one of our own northern birds, a boreal migrant SWAINSON’S THRUSH. A WHITE-WHISKERED HERMIT made an appearance at the feeders.

A visit to a second café with feeders got us WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN, BANANAQUIT, VARIABLE SEEDEATER, and good looks at ANDEAN EMERALD.

SWAINSON'S THRUSH

ANDEAN EMERALD

The afternoon brought us to Mindo for some village birding. In the square, we followed a PACIFIC HORNERO working the ground for food, and saw a flock of PACIFIC PARROTLETS. Also, MASKED WATER-TYRANT and DULL-COLORED GRASSQUIT were added to my life list.

We worked the areas around Mindo and added a number of skulkers, including the furnariids RED-FACED SPINETAIL, UNIFORM TREEHUNTER, BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER, and PACIFIC TUFTEDCHEEK. Antbirds included RUSSET ANTSHRIKE, SLATY- and RUFOUS-RUMPED ANTWRENS and IMMACULATE ANTBIRD.

Although highlights are too numerous to mention, GUAYAQUIL WOODPECKER, TORRENT TYRANNULET, and an immature TORRENT DUCK deserve special note.

MASKED WATER-TYRANT

GUAYAQUIL WOODPECKER

TORRENT TYRANNULET

RUFOUS-BROWN SOLITAIRE

The next day became what was to be the high point of the trip, even for my guides. We worked the MASHPI area, a well-known hotspot where rarities are regular. We were successful in calling out an INDIGO FLOWERPIERCER, which delighted Dusan due to its difficulty. As we walked the road, it only got better, as we found a Solitaire heaven, as we got ANDEAN, BLACK, and the star, RUFOUS-BROWN, apparently a much sought-after bird in the area. WE stocked up on our parulids, with the boreal migrants Blackburnian (ubiquitous throughout), Canada, and Tropical Parula. Genus Basileuteris was represented by CHOCO, THREE-STRIPED, RUSSET-CROWNED, and BUFF-RUMPED warblers.

Now for the star of stars: a CHOCO VIREO, a bird only recently found by Dusan to breed in Ecuador. In the very spot where he had found it for the first time months earlier, it was on territory, calling and gleaning the leaves in a mixed flock. I was told I was one of the few people ever to see this species, that was previously only known from the Colombia/Ecuador border.

WE ended the day with 3 life birds for Tomas, who has birded extensively in Ecuador and for whom anything new is a special occasion.

So far I’ve neglected to mention the Tanagers, which were scattered like jewels throughout; standouts for me were the endemic MOSS-BACKED (from, where else, MASHPI), FLAME-FACED, the stunning GRASS-GREEN, and BLUE-WINGED and BLACK-CHINNED MOUNTAIN TANAGERS.

BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER

CRIMSON-RUMPED TOUCANET

TOUCAN BARBET

The last of our excursion was a visit to the famous PAZ DE LAS AVES, a reserve started as a labor of love by native ANGEL PAZ, who realized the importance of preserving his property as habitat for a number of threatened species. Before daybreak, we set off down the steep, slippery path in search of birds that are hard to see elsewhere. The first specialty was an ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK, a treasure for anyone. As we worked the trails, we happened upon a sleeping COMMON POTOO and had wonderful looks at the endemic and difficult to see DARK-BACKED WOOD-QUAIL. At the platform feeders we got great looks at some of the most beautiful birds of the forest: TOUCAN BARBET, CRIMSON-RUMPED TOUCANET, the endemic SICKLE-WINGED GUAN, and BLACK-CHINNED and BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN TANAGERS.

YELLOW-BREASTED ANTPITTA

The true purpose of Angel Paz is the dedication to preserving the habitat for 4 species of ANTPITTAS, secretive antbirds, many of whom are threatened. He has a method where he draws these birds out by offering worms and gaining their trust. He even has names for them! Of the four, we got good looks at 2: OCHRE BREASTED and YELLOW-BREASTED. Strangely shaped, these birds were a true joy to see. Another treat was a good look at YELLOW-VENTED WOODPECKER and WEDGE-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD.

We were to drive back to Quito that afternoon, but first we returned to the upper elevation area to try to clean up some previously missed species. As we combed the roads, we called out PLAIN-TAILED WREN, FLAVESCENT FLYCATCHER, WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET, and the beautiful TURQUOISE JAY. RUSTY-WINGED BARBTAIL and PEARLED TREERUNNER were welcome additions to my ‘little brown job’ list.

OCHRE-BREASTED ANTPITTA

We dipped on some targets, such as Ocellated Tapaculo, White-Capped Dipper, and Lyre-Tailed Nightjar, but I’m not complaining. All told, I had 132 life birds out of a total 218, and after another overnight in Quito, flew back to the states. I had an unexpected overnight stay in Miami due to an blizzard back home, but I didn’t mind because it gave me time to go over my notes and reflect on one of the most exciting birding trips I’ve had.

SOME ADDITIONAL PICS: